Sound of the Wild

Think about the sounds you typically hear over the course of a  normal day. It starts with the alarm clock and quickly fills with noise. The toaster, the hairdryer, the microwave, cars, cars, and more cars, people talking and shouting, buses, trucks, trains, planes, and of course your phone. If you're lucky you heard some birds singing on the way out the door. Other than the lawnmower, popcorn, and a log on the fire, my favorite sounds come from a land far from modern conveniences.
Next time you are out and about pay attention to what you hear. Insects buzzing, birds singing and calling, the wind in the trees (or your ears). In the mountains you might hear pikas and marmots barking, or larger animals like coyotes or wolves howling in the distance. In the fall, you might be treated to the eerie sound of bugling elk.

A not-so-distant coyote, not howling

Water is life, and it also provides a great soundtrack. I can listen to crashing ocean waves or a gurgling river all day long. Rain falling on surfaces other than pavement is a wonderful experience. The pattering on a tree canopy is soothing enough to forget about being soaked, and rain falling in a pond is a magical sound. In a naturally quiet environment like a cave, there's a good chance you'll hear only a single drop of water at a time, maybe a few seconds apart, maybe a few minutes. Even better than rain is the sound of thunder in the distance. This can be a bit worrisome if you're a long way from shelter.

The soothing sounds of the Firehole River

Late summer nights, if there is no thunder, fall asleep to the sound of the crickets. In the spring, fall asleep to the sound of the tree frogs. Another special spring sound, which I've only heard once, is the knocking sound the trees make after the thaw when they start absorbing water and their sap is flowing again. It took a while to figure that one out.

Pacific tree frogs, a sure sign of spring

Here is a link to a short video of some sounds recorded at Yellowstone National Park. Note that the pictures don't necessarily correspond to the sounds. See how many sounds you can figure out!

Cave Life

This week is Cave Week, so to celebrate we're going spelunking to see what critters we can find. In addition to all sorts of whimsical formations, caves host a surprising amount of life. There are trogolobites, which live full time in caves; trogolophiles, which live in a cave but can also survive outside; and trogoloxenes, the part time cave denizens. You can encounter insects, fish, birds, mammals, plants, fungi, and others. Because there is very little natural light, many of these species are adapted to live in darkness; some don't even have eyes.

Whimsical cave formations

The first cave critter that comes to mind is a bat. Many bats roost in caves because they are cool and dark during the day, making it easier to sleep. Caves make a great place to hibernate over the winter. A constant temperature that is above freezing is an obvious plus, but it's cool enough to trigger the hibernation process. Other cave mammals include bears and jumping mice.

To the bat cave! (National Science Foundation)

Plants are a rare find in  caves because they need sunlight for photosynthesis. I saw ferns growing in a cave under a ceiling hole that opened to the surface. Much more common are fungi, which thrive in dark, damp conditions. Most important among them is Pseudogymnoascus destructans, which causes White Nose Syndrome in bats. It is devastating bat colonies across the US and Canada, and enjoys the cool temperatures while the bats hibernate.

White Nose Syndrome affecting these bats (NPS)

Cave fish are interesting little critters. Nearly all lack eyes and skin pigment. With no light to see by, there is no need to camouflage or stand out, so they are likely to be white or light colored. Unable to see their food, they find it by sensing movement in the water. What exactly do they eat? Since plants, the base of the food chain can't really live in a cave, anything in there either needs to go outside for good or eat whatever gets brought in. Cave fish eat detritus that washes in during rain events. Other critters get by on dung, the leaving of larger animals that way out.

Blind cave fish (NPS, Rick Olsen)

Cave Week runs through this weekend. Find a cave near you and check it out. Spelunk safely. Use the buddy system, carry at least three light sources, and make sure someone knows where you are going. Don't disturb any wildlife and make sure clothing and equipment are thoroughly cleaned before entering another cave. This helps prevent the spread of White Nose Syndrome.
This week's information comes from the National Park Service and National Geographic.

Summer Vacation Guide

Spring just started, but it's not too early to start thinking about summer vacation. National parks have figured into vacation plans ever since the invention of national parks. They are great places to see amazing scenery- and crowds, or have a chance encounter with wildlife- and crowds. Here are a few lesser-known parks with fewer visitors. Just be careful getting there- some are very remote with little or no road access, which always makes for a better adventure.
By taking these roads less travelled, you'll get to experience more than the stereotypical majestic mountains and sweeping desert vistas. Our national parks have so much to offer!
Kobuk Valley National Park, Alaska

Great Kobuk Sand Dunes

Surrounded by mountains, this park is home to a vast caribou herd and extensive sand dunes. Yes, sand dunes North of the Arctic Circle! The sand is the result of glaciers grinding the mountains down. Also found in the park is the boreal treeline, where forest yields to tundra. Be prepared to fly in; there are no roads leading to Kobuk Valley and no services, either.

Tundra fire

National Park of American Samoa, American Samoa

Tutuila Rainforest

This is America's only national park south of the Equator. Full of white sandy beaches and coral reefs, it's a rare ecosystem in the park service holdings. The mountains and rainforests host fruit bats and several species of virds, including a beautiful blue kingfisher. Aside from natural splendor, you can also learn about traditional Samoan culture. Travelling there can be expensive, as American Samoa can only be reached by a long flight or a long ship voyage.

Pola Islands

Voyageurs National Park, Minnesota

North Woods winter

This northern Minnesota park is a kayaker's dream. About 40% of the park is water. This system of interconnected lakes, streams, and wetlands was named after the voyageurs, or four traders, who used this area to transport their wares from the interior to civilization on the Great Lakes. Today, the park preserves water quality, ancient rock formations, boreal and hardwood forests, and endangered species like wolves. While not as remote as Alaska and American Samoa, it's a long drive from the Twin Cities and getting around without a boat of some sort is limited.

Loons on a lake

Great Sand Dunes National Park, Colorado

Sand dunes with Sangre de Cristo Mountains

Off the beaten path in the Rockies, but not too far off, this park features alpine tundra, subalpine meadows, wetlands, forests, mountain streams, lakes, and of course sand. Such a diverse landscape attracts an equally diverse array of flora and fauna. Thousand year old trees share the park with prairie grasses, wildflowers, and scrub sage. Animal life ranges from dung beetles to horned toads to pronghorn, elk, and bear. There is only one road in, but it's an easy drive from Pueblo.

Elk with snowy sand

Wind Cave National Park, South Dakota

Cave boxwork

If you're looking for a good time above or below ground, Wind Cave is the place for you. Upstairs is a convergence of short and tall grass prairies and forest, right on the edge of the Black Hills. Downstairs is one of the world's longest cave systems. Sacred as the birthplace of the Sioux Indians in their origin stories, the cave gets its name from the wind blowing in or out of the small natural opening. Wind direction changes based on barometric pressure and is a good indicator of weather. While rare formations like boxwork can be found in the cave, rare animals like bison and black-footed ferrets are found above. This park is also easy to reach, about an hour south of Rapid City.

Prairie and forest

This week's information and all pictures comes from the National Park Service. Great Sand Dunes pictures come from their Flickr page.

Road Trip Adventure- Wind Cave

As promised, this week we are going inside Wind Cave National Park in South Dakota. This little gem is separated from Custer State Park by just a cattle guard. Eastern tallgrass and western shortgrass prairies mingle with Rocky Mountain and boreal forests here, all on top of the largest cave system in the US. Enjoy another story from the road.

I was looking forward to visiting Wind Cave NP, even before I learned just how extensive the cave system is. I was even more excited when I got to the visitor center and saw black-footed ferret on display. Shortly after crossing the cattle guard from Custer State Park, I saw a little weasel run halfway across the road, then turn around and run back. In the visitor center, I immediately recognized the black-footed ferret as the little critter I saw. I was excited because that little guy is one of the rarest mammals in North America. 

Black-footed ferret (NPS photo)

Thought to be extinct, wildlife managers recently began reintroducing the black-footed ferret after a colony was found in Wyoming. They began a captive breeding program and ferrets were reintroduced in several locations in the west, including Wind Cave, but only four colonies are considered self-sustaining. Threats the ferret include habitat loss, loss of prey (prairie dogs), and diseases such as plague and canine distemper.

Moving on to happier topics, I was delighted to learn the National Park Service offered a variety of cave tours. All tours are ranger-led, because with over 100 miles of known passages any many more miles yet to be entered, they don’t want a bunch of people roaming around unattended. I volunteered to enter the cave last and act as our caboose. 

Wind Cave's largest natural entrance

The tour I chose was the “Natural Entrance” tour, because it is shortest and most frequently offered. The cave’s largest natural opening is a very small hole that only a child could fit into. We entered the cave through a door a few feet away from the natural opening. It was put there in the early 20^th century when what is today’s national park was then a private homestead. The cave has many different formations, but the most impressive is the rare boxwork formation. Boxwork is thought to form from mineral deposits left behind when water seeps into cracks in the rock, remaining even after the rock erodes or dissolves away. At the end of our tour, I was proud to report that we didn’t lose anyone. 

Boxwork, a rare cave formation

Close-up of some of Wind Cave's intricacies

Inside Wind Cave

Back above, I enjoyed the panorama of Black Hills, prairie, and pine forest. I even saw a few bison lazing the day away. 

Lazy bison

I also noticed some clouds, and remembered how Wind Cave got its name. In the early 20^th century a young boy was roaming the prairie when he heard a rushing noise. He located the cave’s natural opening. The noise he heard was wind rushing out. It blew the hat off his head. He thought it was a cool trick, so he brought his friends the next day. Instead of blowing his hat away, the wind sucked the hat into the cave. The direction of the wind is based on air pressure, and the wind was blowing in when our tour began, a sign of storms in the area. Not long after we left the park, we had a thunderstorm. The cave was true to its word. 

A storm's a-brewin'

Watch this video of a park ranger and Lakota Sioux member telling the story of her people’s emergence from Wind Cave. 

This week's information on black-footed ferrets comes from US Fish and Wildlife Service, the agency overseeing implementation of conservation plans for endangered and threatened terrestrial species. National Park staff frequently request that visitors report sightings of certain animals. Mount Rainier wants us to report mountain lion and bear sightings. Olympic wants us to report fisher sightings. Wind Cave wants us to report black-footed ferret sightings, which I did. The rangers were excited to hear about my sighting because ferrets haven't been seen in the area where I saw mine. Citizen science at its finest!

Road Trip Adventure- Black Hills

One of my favorite areas in the US is the Black Hills of South Dakota. I first visited the area in 1990 en route to Alaska. Passing through, we stopped at Mount Rushmore. I always wanted to return, and I did in 2007 when moving from Pennsylvania to Washington. However, we were short on time and money so all we got to do was cruise through with another stop at Mount Rushmore. While living in Washington, I always hoped for a vacation that would give me at least a week in the Black Hills. This summer, as part of the Nature Minute road trip, I was able to return for a few days. Enjoy another story from the road.

What makes the Black Hills, or Paha Sapa as the Sioux call it, such a special place? To the Sioux, Paha Sapa is sacred as the heart of the world, and from space it actually looks like a human heart (from Native Americans Online). To me, it’s just this wonderful mix of pine trees and granite rising above the Great Plains. I felt like I was on top of the world. It’s also melting pot of sorts, as the northern and eastern forests converge with the Great Plains and Rocky Mountains.

Black Hills from space (from Four Winds 10)

The Black Hills were originally part of the Sioux reservation until gold was discovered there. The land was stolen and Custer was involved, but that’s another story for another blog. We’re here to focus on nature, and there are a few natural areas protected within the Black Hills. I didn’t get to spend my week there and I didn’t hike at all, but the three areas I got to see from the car were Black Hills National Forest, Wind Cave National Park, and Custer State Park.

The Needles, granite spires in the Black Hills

Black Hills NF is the largest of the three, covering most of the Black Hills. It’s a working, mixed use forest, meaning it is shared by loggers, wildlife, campers, and other recreational users. Ponderosa pine, spruce, birch, and aspen are common trees. Wildlife includes elk, mule and white-tailed deer, coyotes, mountain lions, mountain goats, and bighorn sheep. Birds of prey such as bald eagles and many songbirds are also present.

White-tailed deer right outside our campground

Coyote

Mountain lion

Wind Cave NP is on the fringes of the Black Hills. Eastern tallgrass prairie mixes with western shortgrass prairie topside, while the largest cave in America sits largely unexplored beneath the surface. Mammals there include bison, prairie dogs, black-footed ferrets. More on this location will follow in another Nature Minute.

Prairie dogs

Custer State Park hosts bison and pronghorn herds, along with majestic vistas of rolling hills, vast prairies, and interesting rock formations. It also sits on the fringes, just north of Wind Cave NP.

Bison herd

Pronghorn

Black Hills scenery

Black Hills scenery

How did the Black Hills magically rise above the rest of the prairie? The mountains formed as a result of volcanic activity and uplift in the Tertian period. The central portion is made of granite, pegamite, and sedimentary rock, ringed by increasingly younger layers of sedimentary rock. In most cases, when viewing layers of rock, the older layers are on the bottom. However, there are some areas in the Black Hills where due to uplifting and folding, the older layers are actually on top.

The Black Hills have something to offer, no matter what your interests. History, wildlife, scenery, culture, geology- this place has it all! If you are ever trying to decide where to go for vacation, consider South Dakota.

This week's information comes from Native Americans Online, Black Hills National Forest, and Carleton College.

Road Trip Adventure- Volcanic Idaho

Continuing on our road trip, this week’s Nature Minute takes us to Idaho’s Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve. Located in south central Idaho, the area was once a hotbed of volcanic activity. Ancient lava flows created a unique landscape and habitat. Enjoy this week’s story from the road.

The lava flows that give Craters of the Moon its signature look and name sprang from the Great Rift between 15,000 and 2,000 years ago. The lava beds cover over 1000 square miles, flowing from 25 vents that spewed in at least 8 volcanic events during that time period. Craters of the Moon is the largest of several lava beds in the Great Rift.

Volcanic landscape of Craters of the Moon

Lava in the midground, sagebrush steppe in the
foreground and background

Geological features of the Monument are spatter cones, cinder cones, fissures, lava tubes, and kipukas. The cones and fissures are volcano types. Lava tubes and kipukas are formed by lava movement.

Spatter cones are formed when thick lava is ejected from a volcano. It remains molten when it hits the ground, but due to high viscosity, the blobs of lava do not flow away. Rather, new molten blobs are ejected and they stick together, forming a cone. Cinder cones form similarly, but the lava blobs cool and harden in mid-air, becoming lava bombs (actual geological term). The size and shape of the bombs is dependent on gas content.

Spatter cone (NPS photo)

Fissures are large volcanic cracks in the ground. A full-length fissure eruption is probably the rarest of all volcanic eruptions. Spatter and cinder cones can form in a fissure if it becomes clogged in any area. 

Lava tubes form when the outside of a lava flow cools, forming a hard rock shell. After the remaining molten lava drains, the hollow tube remains. I have been inside a lava tube, the Ape Cave at Mount Saint Helens in Washington.

Lava tube (Oregon State University photo)

Kipukas are islands of older lava flows surrounded by newer lava flows. Vegetation on kipukas is different from the surrounding lava flow areas. At Craters of the Moon, the kipukas are islands of sage steppe surrounded by black lava rock.

Kipuka (NPS photo)

Despite its barren appearance, Craters of the Moon supports a diverse ecological community. Plants include sagebrush, prickly pear, limber pine, and Indian paintbrush. Animals in the Monument include the pika, sage grouse, pygmy rabbits, northern harrier, and common nighthawk.

Limber pine

While visiting, I observed a northern harrier overhead. I took a nice stroll through the Devil’s Orchard, so named by a 19^th century preacher who failed to see beauty in Creation and declared the place to be a garden fit for the devil. I enjoyed seeing the lichen that are working around the clock to turn rock into soil so larger plants can colonize. The twisted branches of the limber pine, knotted by mistletoe, set against a stark black backdrop made for an eerie sight. I enjoyed my brief visit and would like to return for a more in-depth look around. I chose not to linger because Craters of the Moon was the undercard for the main even, Yellowstone.

Limber pine with "witch's brooms"

Polished lava rock with swirls

Hardened slow-moving lava flow

Information this week comes from the National Park Service about kipukas, including the picture above. Great Rift information comes from a paper by the folks at Idaho State University. Photo credits go to National Park Service (spatter cone) and Oregon State University (lava tube). All others are my own.

Bats and White Nose Syndrome

Bats are a misunderstood and unreasonably feared critter. Some species rid our skies of pest insects, while others pollinate crops and other plants. Bat poop (guano) is a rich fertilizer. Attitudes are changing as people begin to appreciate the ecosystem services bats provide but now they face another threat, White Nose Syndrome.

White Nose Syndrome (WNS) is a fungal infection that is destroying bat colonies at an unprecedented rate. The fungus Pseudogymnoscus destructans was likely introduced from Europe inadvertently. It thrives in the cold strikes bats when they are hibernating. Bats hibernate to conserve energy when their food source (insects or fruit) is unavailable, but the infection causes them to wake from hibernation. Being awake increases metabolism and other bodily functions, and the bats starve to death because of burning through whatever energy they had stored to make it through the winter. To answer your next question, “How does being awake kill a bat?”, most of the calories you need in a day are just to keep you alive- breathing, circulation, and the biggest energy consumer- temperature regulation.

WNS spreads from direct contact with an infected bat or from surface contamination inside a bat cave. People can transport the fungus from cave to cave, so spelunkers must decontaminate clothing, shoes, and equipment in between caves. 

Bats infected with WNS (National Park Service photo)

WNS has killed millions of bats in the eastern parts of the US and Canada is spreading west. Last year the first case was discovered here in Washington. Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife conducted a bat count a few weeks ago at Northwest Trek as the beginning of an effort to monitor bat colonies and WNS. A follow-up count took place this past weekend and I took part.

The goal is to count the number of bats seen leaving and entering the nest. Exits minus entries is the total number of bats seen. The tricky part is seeing them as it gets darker. I did OK with this until about 9:20. The freaky part is not seeing the bats until they are inches from your face, then they turn away at the last second, mostly to my left. I could their wings flapping as they passed by my head.

By establishing a baseline this year the state hopes to track population trends that could indicate colonies in trouble. This can be tricky, though. Bats sometimes tend to not roost in the same location night after night. For example, the site I counted was unmonitored in the previous count. The only reason I was posted there was because on the way into Northwest Trek we heard the bats making sounds inside the park entryway. My total for the night was around 60 bats. Other sites inside the park had a lower count than during the previous survey. It is possible that my site had an increase since the last survey, but that is unknown since no one counted there the first time. 

Me counting bats

In just six years since its introduction, WNS had killed millions of bats with a mortality rate up to 100% in some colonies, according to the US Fish and Wildlife Service. Fighting back will be a long process, but the key first step is monitoring. I am glad I had a chance to take part in the beginning of what I hope will be a successful fight. WNS info this week comes from the National Park Service, one of many partners in the search for a cure.

NPS: https://www.nps.gov/articles/what-is-white-nose-syndrome.htm

USFWS: http://www.batcon.org/pdfs/USFWS_WNS_Mortality_2012_NR_FINAL.pdf