My Favorite State Parks

National parks get a lot of buzz, especially since the 100th anniversary of the National Park Service in 2016. But with 50 states to chose from, there are a lot of amazing state parks out there. Many are overlooked, as most people are only aware of their own state's parks. I've been to a few places, so here's a look at my Top 5 state parks that I've been to.

#5 Cape May Point State Park, New Jersey

Located at the southern tip of New Jersey where Delaware Bay meets the Atlantic, Cape May Point is a key birding location along the Atlantic flyway. The main feature is the lighthouse completed in 1859, there are a few miles of trails that wind through a varied landscape of beach, wetland, and forest habitats. The trails connect to an adjacent Audubon Society property, creating a complex of protected natural habitat in a popular vacation destination.

Coastal forest

Lighthouse seen through marsh grasses

#4 Ohiopyle State Park, Pennsylvania

For thousands of years, the Youghiogheny River has snaked its way through the mountains of western Pennsylvania, cutting through rough terrain as it tumbles towards Pittsburgh. Today, Ohiopyle preserves a stretch of the river known for its waterfalls and rapids, surrounded by dense forest. In the 1750s, George Washington said the Youghiogheny could never be tamed, and because of its wild beauty, I hope he is right.

Laurel Highlands

Ohiopyle Falls

#3 Myakka River State Park, Florida

As the Florida State Parks website says, this is the REAL Florida. Myakka River is worlds away from the resorts, theme parks, and strip malls, and Florida Man stories but only minutes away by car. Leave your thoughts of the modern world behind as you trek through palm forest, wet and dry prairie, freshwater wetlands, and even a walkway in the treetops. Every bend in the trail presents new opportunities for wildlife watching, from fire ants to roseate spoonbills to alligators. Highlights include a boat tour when the river is high enough, and a tower that rises high above the surrounding trees.

Alligators, black vultures, roseate spoonbills, and wood storks in Myakka River

Wildflowers in a dry prairie

#2 Custer State Park, South Dakota

Fall in love with the West at Custer. This park preserves mountain lakes, towering granite spires, and rolling prairie in the Black Hills. Custer State Park is most famous for its 18 mile Wildlife Loop Road, where you are almost guaranteed to see deer, elk, pronghorn, and the iconic bison. The Needles Highway winds though granite spires at elevations so much higher than the surrounding prairie, you'll feel on top of the world. To the native Sioux inhabitants, it was the top of their world.

Bison roaming the prairie

The Needles

#1 Larrabee State Park, Washington

My top state park is where the majestic forests of the Pacific Northwest meet the sea. Peaceful lakes drain through bubbling streams in a quiet forest, reaching the Salish Sea at rocky beaches. At low tide, sea urchins, anemones, and starfish briefly become part of our world while they wait for the incoming tide to return their world. If you find the right trail, you can sit cliffside and watch seagulls fly beneath your feet.

Forested headland

A small stream trickles toward the Salish Sea

This list is subjective and based on no criteria at all. If you chose to visit these or any other parks, check conditions first and carry the 10 essentials. Be aware of all hazards including wildlife and weather. Remember to leave no trace. 

Photo credits my own

Herring Spawning

One of the great spectacles in North American wildlife watching is the Pacific herring spawning. It happens every year in late winter and early spring. Not only does the event produce the next generation of an important fish species, it also sustains the current generation of many other animals.

Pacific herring form an important strand in the food web. They are classified as forage fish, meaning they serve as meals for larger fish like salmon. As we'll see a little later, herrings feed the larger community beyond just the salmon.

Herring spawning turns the sea white (Prince William Sound Conservation Center) 

Herring move to shallower seas during spring, which happens to be right around the same time hungry humpback whales arrive from the tropics. The herring are looking for eelgrass or kelp beds for their sticky eggs to attach to. After the females lay their eggs over the vegetation, the males swim over and release their milt to fertilize the eggs.

Before reaching the spawning beds, the herring must navigate a maze of predators: sea lions, sea birds like cormorants and gulls, bald eagles, and those hungry, hungry humpbacks. Once the work is done, the eggs aren't safe and the smorgasbord continues as diving ducks pick them off. About two weeks later, the remaining eggs hatch and the herring larvae are carried by the tide and are subject to predation by fish of all shapes and sizes.

Herring eggs attached to kelp (US Geologic Survey)

With all that eating going on, it's a wonder any herring survive to adulthood. Females typically lay 20,000 eggs a year, and if she lives a long life, she'll do this three times. Multiply her by a million of her closest friends, and you have about 20 billion eggs. If only 1% hatch, that's 200 million baby herring.

Sea lions await their feast (Tillamook Coast)

In a good year, spawning herring will color the sea white. However, the spawning isn't nearly as good as it used to be. Overfishing is one reason, but loss of habitat (spawning and feeding areas) and pollution are also big contributors.
This week's information comes from Wayne Hoffman, Ph.D. and Washington Department of Natural Resources.
nm1: Prince William Sound Conservation Center https://pwssc.org/herring-spawn/
nm2: USGS https://www.usgs.gov/media/images/pacific-herring-eggs-macrophytes
nm3: Wayne Hoffman https://tillamookcoast.com/blog/spawning-of-pacific-herring/

Sea Lions and Whales

Summer weather is hear for most of us (off and on here in the Northwest- off as I write this) so let’s take another trip to the beach in search of marine mammals. Actually, this a recap of a trip to the beach I took in December 2014. I went to Florence, Oregon to check out the local pinnipeds and cetaceans. What are those you ask?

Cetaceans are whales and pinnipeds are critters such as seals and walruses. Pinniped means fin footed, and the feet of these critters are modified into swimming flippers. Maybe you’re wondering why I went to the beach in December. I actually stopped by the Sea Lion Cave in August, but the sea lions weren’t home. Sea Lion Cave is the largest sea cave in the world, home to a Stellar sea lion rookery. During the summer the sea lions are out to sea, and I got so see some swimming at a distance. Because they weren’t home, I got a rain check to return any time within a year and chose December because they would be roosting and migrating gray whales would be passing by.

For those of you outside of the Northwest, this was a big gamble, picking out a weekend to get a hotel months in advance. The weather is notoriously wet in this corner of the world, especially during the winter months. On the coast, winds can reach hurricane force during a good storm. And I was betting that I’d have good enough visibility to see a whale out there somewhere.

I was either lucky or a genius. Saturday’s drive to Oregon and Sunday at the cave were great for driving and whale watching. Inside the cave smelled of sea lion, but the fresh sea breeze kept the smell from becoming overwhelming. It’s a noisy place, alive with the sounds of crashing waves and the grunts and groans of half-ton beasts. No flash photography, and humans are in a cage to keep us and the sea lions safe from each other.

 

Lion's den, devoid of sea lions (summer 2014)

Incoming wave at the sea-facing opening of the lion's den (summer 2014)

 Outside, squadrons of gulls and guillemots patrolled the skies above. Heceta Head Lighthouse kept watch to the north, southward were the city of Florence and the towering Oregon Dunes. The back side of the Sea Lion Cave gift shop (at the top of the elevator down to the “lion’s den”) is a picnic area and observation deck on a bluff over a hundred feet above the Pacific Ocean. All around were sea bird rookeries. It’s a huge area to scan, hoping to see a whale drift by. What are the odds that one would surface right where I was looking? I didn’t see any whales that day but I did see the spouts of a few. This was exciting for me, since I’d never seen a whale before, other than Shamu and friends in Orlando.

Pigeon guillemot (from Audubon Society)

Gray whale (from NOAA)

Stellar sea lion (from NOAA)

Rain and fog settled in north of Salem as I headed back home after a successful day of new wildlife encounters. Since then I’ve encountered harbor seals just offshore from Tacoma and I would love to do a whale watching cruise in the San Juan Islands. What do you watch for when you hit the beach?

Ocean-going sea lions (summer 2014)

Shore bird rookery #1

Rookery #2

Whale jaw bone at Umpqua Lighthouse in Oregon

Sea lion (NOAA) http://www.noaanews.noaa.gov/stories2010/20100806_sealion.html

Gray whale (NOAA) http://www.fisheries.noaa.gov/pr/species/mammals/whales/gray-whale.html

Pigeon guillemot (Audubon) http://www.audubon.org/field-guide/bird/pigeon-guillemot